When buyers and brands talk about "premium cashmere," they are often describing a sensory experience: exceptional softness, a distinctive warmth-to-weight ratio, and a drape that synthetic fibres cannot replicate. But behind these subjective qualities lies a precise, measurable specification: the micron count. Understanding micron count — and what it means for the finished product — is foundational knowledge for any serious buyer in the premium cashmere market.
A micron (or micrometre) is one millionth of a metre — one thousandth of a millimetre. Human hair typically measures between 50 and 70 microns in diameter. Premium cashmere fibre measures between 14 and 19 microns. The difference between a 14-micron fibre and an 18-micron fibre is invisible to the naked eye but profoundly significant in terms of how the finished garment feels against the skin.
The lower the micron count, the finer the fibre. Finer fibres produce softer, lighter, more fluid fabrics. They also require more sophisticated spinning equipment, more careful handling during processing, and more precise quality control — all of which contribute to the higher cost of superfine cashmere.
The cashmere industry broadly categorises fibre quality by micron count:
Grade A (14–15.5 microns): The finest commercially available cashmere. Used in luxury knitwear, fine-gauge sweaters (12G–18G), and high-end accessories. Produces the softest handle and most fluid drape. Commands the highest price per kilogram.
Grade B (15.5–17 microns): Premium quality cashmere, suitable for mid-gauge knitwear (7G–12G) and heavier accessories. Still significantly softer than wool or lower-grade cashmere. The most widely used grade in the luxury market.
Grade C (17–19 microns): Standard commercial cashmere, used in heavier knitwear, outerwear, and blended fabrics. Noticeably coarser than Grade A or B. Often blended with wool or other fibres to reduce cost.
ALBAS cashmere from Inner Mongolia's Ordos Plateau consistently achieves 14.5–15.8 microns — placing it firmly in Grade A territory. This specification is a direct result of the extreme climate of the Ordos Plateau, which drives the development of exceptionally fine undercoat fibre in ALBAS white cashmere goats.
The gauge of a knitted fabric — the number of stitches per inch — is directly related to the fineness of the yarn used. Finer yarns (spun from finer fibres) can be knitted at higher gauges, producing lighter, more refined fabrics. The relationship between fibre micron count and knitting gauge is one of the most important technical considerations for buyers specifying cashmere products.
A 12-gauge cashmere sweater — the standard for luxury fine-gauge knitwear — requires yarn spun from fibre in the 14.5–16 micron range. Attempting to produce a 12G sweater with 18-micron fibre will result in a fabric that is too heavy, too stiff, and lacking the characteristic drape of fine-gauge cashmere. Conversely, using Grade A ALBAS fibre for a 3G or 5G chunky knit is technically possible but economically inefficient — the premium fibre quality is largely imperceptible at coarser gauges.
Micron count is the most widely discussed fibre specification, but staple length — the average length of individual fibres — is equally important for yarn quality. Longer staple fibres produce stronger, more lustrous yarn with less pilling. Shorter fibres produce softer but weaker yarn that is more prone to pilling over time.
ALBAS cashmere achieves a staple length of 34–36mm — at the upper end of the range for commercially available cashmere. This combination of fine micron count and long staple length is what gives ALBAS cashmere its distinctive combination of softness, lustre, and durability. It is a combination that is difficult to replicate with cashmere from other regions, where the climate conditions that produce long, fine fibre are absent.
For buyers who want to verify the fibre specifications of the cashmere they are sourcing, independent laboratory testing is available. The standard test methods — IWTO-12 for mean fibre diameter and IWTO-30 for fibre length — are internationally recognised and can be performed by accredited testing laboratories in Europe, the United States, and China.
Reputable suppliers will provide test certificates from accredited laboratories as a standard part of their documentation package. Buyers who are sourcing at scale should request batch-specific test certificates — not just supplier-level certifications — to verify that the fibre specifications are consistent across production runs. This level of documentation is standard practice among premium cashmere suppliers and should be a baseline expectation for any serious B2B buyer.